Driveway Gravel

Angular stone is the gravel that stays put. Each piece has sharp edges, so the rocks lock under a tire instead of rolling aside. Pea gravel and river rock are smooth and round. They feel fine on a path, and they make a loose, rutted driveway.

The surface we sell as driveway gravel is clean angular stone with the dust screened out. Water can move between the pieces, and the edges still lock. Quarries usually cut that stone from limestone or granite. Which one shows up depends on the yard that fills the truck.

Two clean sizes sit next to this product. #57 crushed stone is the 3/4-inch grade a lot of driveways use on top. 3/4" crushed stone is the same job with a slightly different screen. The packed layer underneath is road base. Yards often call that crusher run. It is a different product from the clean stone on this page.

A driveway that holds up is three layers, with a geotextile fabric sheet between the soil and the rock.

1. Subgrade. Scrape off soft topsoil until you hit firm ground. Shape a crown, higher in the middle, so rain runs to the edges instead of sitting in the tire tracks.
2. Geotextile, then the base. Roll the fabric over the soil so mud can't pump up into the rock. Spread 4 to 6 inches of road base and compact it. On soft or wet ground, start with a lift of larger angular stone, such as 1 1/2 inch crushed gravel, then the road base. Compact a couple of inches at a time. One thick dump will not pack.
3. Surface. Spread 2 to 3 inches of this driveway gravel, or #57 crushed stone, and compact it. This is the layer you see and drive on. Leave the dust-heavy road base underneath, where packing matters more than looks.

The calculator above turns your length, width, and depth into tons for this stone. The driveway calculator sizes the base and the surface together. The longer walk-through is in our driveway gravel guide.

Gravel is the driveway you can build and refresh with a delivered load. Asphalt and concrete cost more to install, need a paving crew, and go longer between major repairs. We deliver the rock. We don't pave.

Installed prices are national ranges from HomeAdvisor's gravel driveway guide and paving cost guide (2025), and they include a crew. Asphalt on that paving guide is about $7 to $15 a square foot, concrete about $8 to $18, and a gravel driveway about $1.25 to $4. Those guides put asphalt resurfacing on a 10 to 20 year cycle and concrete at up to about 40 years. The drainage and DIY rows are how the materials behave, not a HomeAdvisor statistic. Your price above is rock plus delivery.

A pothole starts where water sits, or where the base was never packed. Fill the hole with the same angular stone and compact it. Then fix the water. A crown down the middle sends rain to the edges, and open ditches give that water somewhere to go. If mud is pumping up through the rock, the geotextile or the base has failed, and a fresh sprinkle of stone will not hold.

Washouts and erosion take the edges first, especially on a slope. Rake stone back into the thin spots after a hard rain, and keep the surface from funneling water into one rut. Plan on about an inch of fresh gravel every year or two. That replaces what tires and rain carry off.

Snow is fine on gravel if the plow blade stays up about an inch. A blade set on the ground peels the surface off and piles it in the grass. A snowblower does less damage. After the thaw, fill the stripes the plow scraped.

The driver drops the load where you point. Spreading and compacting are on you, unless the hauler quotes that work on site. When a stretch gets thin, see your delivered price and order the same stone again.